Tuna Salad Nicoise Sandwiches
An original recipe for Zaca Mesa by cookbook author Theresa V. Laursen

served with Zaca Mesa Grenache

serves 6

These sandwiches (called Pan Bagnat in French dialect) are a revelation. Imagine a richly flavorful tuna salad nicoise tucked between two halves of a beautiful rustic loaf, enlivened with a garlicky French vinaigrette featuring the earthy kick of minced anchovies and Dijon mustard. Pan Bagnat’s literal translation is “bathed bread,” as both halves of bread are liberally doused with the vinaigrette – the better to merge with the juices of fresh ripe tomatoes, the tuna, basil, olives, and other fresh picks of the season.

The filled loaf is wrapped and placed under weights to condense the layered ingredients and to marry their individual flavors, then unwrapped and cut into individual sandwiches.

Pan Bagnat makes perfect picnic fare. Take one to share with friends at the beach, on a hike or a boat ride, or right at home, indoors or out.

    This recipe is for the traditional tuna version, but you can try this very adaptable sandwich with whatever is in season and on hand. Chickpeas, for example, make a scrumptious vegetarian version. For a party, I like to make one of each.

    Pan Bagnat and Zaca Mesa Grenache make an exciting pair. Only in exceptional years can winemakers produce a 100% grenache, and Zaca Mesa's 2006 harvest was superb. This light-bodied red with its raspberry liqueur and smoky aromas and flavors is a rare treat and a great match for the spirited flavors of this Mediterranean treat.

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE
 

•   6    anchovy fillets, minced
•   2    large cloves garlic, minced
•   2    tablespoons aged red wine vinegar
•  1½    teaspoons Dijon mustard
•   ½    teaspoon sea salt
•   Liberal grindings of fresh black pepper
•   6    tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

In a medium bowl, whisk together everything except the olive oil. Then slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking constantly, until the vinaigrette is somewhat smooth and creamy.


FOR THE SANDWICHES

• 1 one-pound round crusty country loaf, or ciabatta (see Theresa’s Table below)
• 2-3 medium-size ripe tomatoes, sliced
• 1 celery heart, angle-cut into thin pieces (or substitute a few crisp lettuce leaves
• 2 medium-size French radishes, trimmed and angle-cut into thin slices (or substitute a few scallions)
• 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
• 2 cans (6 ounces each) tuna packed in olive oil, drained (seeTheresa’s Table below)
• 16 large basil leaves
• 1/3 cup nicoise or kalamata olives, pitted
• 2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and sliced

Slice the bread in half lengthwise, placing both pieces cut side up. (If using a country loaf, pull out some of the soft interior to make a cavity.) Spoon the vinaigrette equally over each piece. Layer the sandwich ingredients on the bottom half of the bread: Tomatoes, celery hearts, radishes, red onion, tuna, basil, olives, and egg slices. Top with the other half and firmly press sandwich together. Wrap the sandwich tightly in foil, wax paper or plastic wrap, then place in a plastic bag. Place the Pan Bagnat under weights. (I set the wrapped loaf on a cutting board and put a heavy cast-iron skillet on top, then stack the skillet with canned goods.) Weight for 10 minutes, then turn it over and weight for another 10 minutes.

At this point, you can unwrap, slice into six pieces, and serve immediately. But I like to keep it weighted for a good 2 hours, or even up to 8 hours, before serving. (Keep at room temperature. Don’t refrigerate or you’ll lose moisture and flavor.)
   
Plate up the sandwiches and serve with lightly chilled Zaca Mesa Grenache.  

Theresa’s Table
The right tuna and the right bread are critical. No water-packed tuna, please. Tuna packed in olive oil has the depth of flavor you want. The bread should be a one-pound loaf – either a large, round, flat country loaf or a ciabatta. (Or simply use six individual French or Italian sandwich rolls.) The filling should have some crisp as well as soft elements to complement the tuna. I most often use sliced hard-cooked egg, fresh basil, crisp celery hearts, French radishes from the Farmer's Market and thin rounds of red onion. You could also use crisp lettuce leaves, roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts, capers... Are you following this flavorful drift? Whether you go traditional or get more adventurous with the filling, you’re going to produce a deeply satisfying result.